Tartans &
Flags
Tartans
and Scottish flags have an interesting history. The St. Andrews flag
is perhaps the oldest national flag, first being used in the 9th
Century.
The Montreat Scottish Society has a collection of more
than 120 tartan banners representing clans that have been donated to
the society for use in various events, including the annual Kirkin'
o' the Tartans. A complete list of tartan banners and their donors
is available by clicking here. (available in late November)
We are working on pages which will display information
on clans and their tartan(s). This function will be available in
2005.
Montreat
Scottish Society Tartan
A few years ago, the Montreat Scottish Society worked
with tartan designers and manufacturers to develop our own tartan,
which is pictured on the left of each page in this web site.
Tartan History
The Scoti, who settled Western Scotland during
the 5th & 6th centuries are said to have used striped garments
to signify rank. The basis of the pattern, dress style and word may
date back to the time when the Scots introduced their Gaelic culture
into what was to become Scotland. If early tartan, like the Gaelic
language, were used across Scotland in the 10th century, by the 13th
century tartans would have been confined to the Highlands.
In 1538, there is a reference to
'Heland Tartan'. A Frenchman at the siege of Haddington in 1537
describes Highlanders as wearing what appears to be tartans. From
1581, there is a description of 'variegated garments, especially
stripes, and their favourite colours are purple and blue.' Poet John
Taylor clearly describes the woolen tartan garments of Highlanders
at Braemar in 1618. A doctor on Skye around 1700, Dr. Martin gives
the first descriptions of tartan which imply their significance as
regional and the importance to weavers ensuring that their cloth
always has precise local patterns. Martin states that it is possible
to tell from a man's plaid where he lived.
The
battle of Culloden in 1746 saw the end of Jacobite claims to the
throne. Many Highlanders, but by no means all, had backed the losing
side of Prince Charles Edward Stuart. The great importance of tartan
to Highland Culture led the government banned it from 1746-82. This
proscription however applied only to common Highland men - not the
upper echelons of Highland society, not to Lowland Scots and not to
women. But most importantly, it did not apply to the Highland
regiments that were being formed in the Government army.
The new regiments were mainly associated with specific
clans, containing the men of that clan and often led by the chief or
a senior member of his family. The first regiments used the
'Government Tartan', the Black Watch, but others quickly adopted
distinctive new patterns.
After the dress codes were repealed, a burgeoning
interest lead to a 'new tartan' industry, led by the Lowland company
of William Wilson. He meet the growing demand for Tartan by
inventing new patterns. He supplied the Army and the flourishing
demand for cloth in the Lowlands. All his patterns were initially
simply given numbers but some quickly became popular in certain
areas and became known by that region's name - thus were born the
regional tartans. Others were commissioned for a specific person and
soon the surname of that person became the name of the Tartan!
New patterns appeared each year for Wilson's salesmen
to market. There is no evidence that Wilson's tartans had anything
whatsoever to do with any ancient regional or pre-1746 patterns. The
tartans worn at the Battles of Sheriffmuir or Culloden have almost
all been lost forever.
In 1816, an attempt was made to match clan to 'true'
tartan. Tartans were gathered but these had more to do with
regimental uniforms and Wilson's successful marketing than any older
patterns. But the idea that a specific tartan paired with a clan had
become firmly established.
By the early 19th century, authors such as James Logan,
the Sobieski-Stuarts, and Sir Walter Scott had popularized the
notion that certain tartans belonged to specific clans since ancient
times. At this time, almost half the British army was
Highlanders and the worldwide success of these regiments was legend.
In 1822, George IV visited Edinburgh. He wanted to see
Scots in their tartans. Tartan and highland dress was the order of
that day, thanks to Sir Walter Scott's personal planning. The tartan
was seen as Scottish symbol, rather than just a Highland
custom.
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